If you're tired of seeing oil gunking up your intake, a 6.0 powerstroke crankcase breather delete might be the exact project you've been looking for. It's one of those modifications that most 6.0 owners eventually consider once they realize just how much of a mess the factory setup makes under the hood. Ford's original design is functional, sure, but it's definitely not "clean" by any stretch of the imagination.
Anyone who's spent time under the hood of a Super Duty knows that the 6.0 Powerstroke has a few let's call them "personality traits." One of the most annoying is the way the Crankcase Ventilation (CCV) system works. By design, it takes oily mist from the crankcase and dumps it right back into the intake tract, right before the turbo. While this is great for emissions, it's pretty lousy for the long-term health and cleanliness of your engine's components.
What's the Deal With the Stock Setup?
To understand why people want to get rid of it, you have to look at what's actually happening inside the engine. Every internal combustion engine has "blow-by." This is basically just combustion gases that sneak past the piston rings and end up in the crankcase. These gases are hot, and they're carrying a fine mist of engine oil.
In the stock 6.0 Powerstroke configuration, the breather sits on the driver-side valve cover. A hose runs from that breather directly into the air intake tube. The idea is that the turbo sucks those gases back in, and they get burned up during the next combustion cycle. On paper, it's a closed-loop system that keeps the environment happy.
In reality, it means your turbocharger is constantly being sprayed with oil. That oil then travels through your intercooler pipes, settles at the bottom of the intercooler, and eventually makes its way into the intake manifold. If you've ever pulled your intercooler boots and found them soaked in oil, now you know why.
Why Diesel Owners Go the Delete Route
The biggest reason most guys look into a 6.0 powerstroke crankcase breather delete is to stop the "oil soak" problem. When oil sits in your rubber intercooler boots, it eventually starts to break down the rubber. The boots get soft, they get slippery, and suddenly you're "blowing boots" every time you get on the throttle. There's nothing quite like the sound of an intercooler pipe popping off under 25 psi of boost to ruin your afternoon.
Beyond the boots, that oil mist isn't doing your intercooler any favors. Oil acts as an insulator. When the inside of your intercooler is coated in a film of sludge, it can't dissipate heat as effectively. This leads to higher Exhaust Gas Temperatures (EGTs) and a less efficient engine.
Then there's the carbon buildup. When you mix that oily mist with the soot coming from the EGR valve (if yours is still active), it creates a thick, nasty paste. This stuff can eventually clog up your intake manifold ports and stick to the valves. By rerouting that breather, you're essentially ensuring that only clean, filtered air is entering your turbo and your engine.
Venting to Atmosphere vs. Using a Catch Can
When you decide to do a 6.0 powerstroke crankcase breather delete, you generally have two ways to go about it. Both involve disconnecting the hose from the intake and plugging the hole where it used to go.
The most common (and cheapest) method is venting to the atmosphere. You basically run a long piece of reinforced hose from the valve cover down to the frame rail, ending somewhere near the back of the cab. The pressure just vents out into the open air. It's simple, it's effective, and it costs about twenty bucks in parts.
The downside? Your truck might start to smell a bit like an old tractor at stoplights. Since those gases are venting right under the truck, they can sometimes waft into the cabin. Also, you might notice a small drip of oil on your driveway if you park in the same spot every day.
The "cleaner" alternative is a catch can or an oil separator. This involves mounting a canister in-line. The oily air goes into the can, the oil settles to the bottom, and the "cleaned" air either vents to the atmosphere or goes back into the intake. This is the best of both worlds, but it's more expensive and requires you to remember to drain the can every few thousand miles.
What You'll Need for the Job
Luckily, this isn't a job that requires a degree in rocket science. If you can turn a wrench and use a screwdriver, you can probably handle this in an hour or two. You'll usually need a couple of feet of 1-inch (or 5/8-inch depending on your specific kit) oil-resistant hose. Don't just use cheap heater hose; the oil will eat through it in no time. Look for something rated for fuel or oil.
You'll also need a plug for the intake tube. Most people use a simple expansion plug or a dedicated cap from a hardware store. A few hose clamps to keep everything snug, and you're basically there.
One pro-tip: when you're routing the hose down to the frame, make sure there are no "dips" or "traps" in the line. You want a consistent downward slope. If the hose sags, oil can pool in the bottom of the loop. In cold weather, that oil (and any moisture) can freeze, effectively blocking the breather. If your engine can't breathe, it'll start blowing out seals, and that's a much more expensive problem to fix.
Some Real-World Downsides to Keep in Mind
Before you go ripping out your factory hoses, it's only fair to mention the trade-offs. The first one is the legal side of things. Technically, tampering with any part of the emissions system—including the CCV—isn't exactly "street legal" in many jurisdictions. If you live somewhere with strict inspections, this might be something you have to swap back every year.
Then there's the "smell factor" we mentioned earlier. Some people don't mind it; they say it smells like "freedom" and "diesel power." Others hate it, especially if they have passengers who aren't used to the scent of a hot crankcase.
Also, you have to be careful about where you vent. You don't want that hose ending right next to your air filter intake, or you'll just be sucking the fumes right back into the engine anyway, which defeats the whole purpose. Most guys run it back toward the transmission crossmember to keep the mess away from the front of the truck.
Final Thoughts on the Modification
Is a 6.0 powerstroke crankcase breather delete a mandatory mod? Probably not. There are plenty of 6.0s out there with 300,000 miles still running the stock setup. But if you're someone who likes to keep their engine bay spotless, or if you're pushing higher boost levels and keep losing intercooler boots, it's a very logical step.
It's one of those "quality of life" upgrades for your truck. It simplifies the engine bay, keeps your intake components clean, and prevents that nasty sludge buildup that can cause headaches down the road. Just make sure you use high-quality materials and route your lines carefully.
At the end of the day, the 6.0 is a great engine once you address the weak points. While the CCV system isn't as big of a "failure point" as the oil cooler or the head bolts, it's definitely a messy one. Rerouting that breather is just one more way to make your Powerstroke run a little bit cleaner and a lot more reliably. Plus, it gives you a good excuse to spend a Saturday afternoon tinkering in the garage—and that's never a bad thing.